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WAGO!!!

edited November 2013 in Rides
So I suppose its about time I start this thread. This lil gem had a very interesting and long life before me. 1986 Honda Civic Wagon (Wagovan). I purchased the car from a guy who was planning on sending it to the junkyard (glad he didnt) for a whopping $300 bucks. When I picked up the car it had a distributor that was... oh how do I put this... toast. I was told to take it for a test drive with a booster pack hooked up to the battery so the engine wouldn't die (Facepalm). Not the most proud moment of my life but I've had worse. So $100 bucks later she was ready for the road. Now all that was left was to go to the DMV to get it registered, easy enough right??? Not in the slightest. When I bought the car I was handed a signed CLEAN Minnesota title issued in 2012. When I took it to the DMV they informed me that the car was totalled in 2003......... and in 2007, so it was given a salvaged title in the state of New Mexico (little did I know the car was from the south). Apparently someone at the Minnesota DMV screwed up a title transfer in 2012 and gave it a clean title. So at the end of the day who do you think has to pay for that mistake??? The only logical solution is me of course. Thankfully I didnt have to get the car inspected, but what I did get was a beautiful salvage title issued in the state of Wisconsin. oh well could be worse it was only $300 bucks. After that ordeal everything was on the right page. I put my old wheels from the NX on the car 16" konig kaitens, which barely cleared the shocks. Now on the chopping block this month is lowering and painting. Parts have been ordered and hopefully will be here in a timely matter so I can start.
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Day I bought it
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New shoes!!!
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Comments

  • love the JDM bumper stitch!
  • Fuck yes WAGO!!!!!
  • k... time for updates... spent the last couple nights pulling the car from the snowbanks of the 224 to the garage, and yesterday started a lovely project of lowering. First of all I had no idea what i was doing and the only reference I had was a very vague write up on wikipedia strangely? so here we go
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    removing it from the snowbank
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    224 doin work!!
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    front torsion bar suspension
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    back side of the front torsion bar
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    and theres the torsion bar out. now the fun part begins. GRINDING!!!
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    theres a shot of the inside of the torsion bar. to get the torsion bar itself out I had to take the snap ring off of the rear side of the torsion bar, then tap the torsion bar forward to reveal the front snap ring and take that off as well. Finally to take the torsion bar out I had to again tap it out the back side of the tube. With that out of the way i took a dremel and a small round file and filed off the rear side of the keyway on the torsion tube. With that out of the way I partially installed the torsion tube so the front of the bar started to spline in without the rear starting to spline. We then manipulated the control arm so that the rear side of the torsion bar would spline in one tooth off clockwise. Thus lowering the car. Of course you mark the position of the torsion bar to the torsion tube before removing it so you life doesnt suck when you try and reinstall it. For me not knowing what I was doing the drivers side took me a whopping hour and thirty minutes to do. The passenger even with its complications only took an hour to do. And this is how it ended up!!
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    kind of a shitty picture but that is just to the bottom of the front bumper. The lowest point of the car which is the exhaust would have ended up hitting halfway up the can
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    I was shocked that the 16's actually cleared everything. I can't turn the wheel to full lock anymore but thats not a big deal. There is absolutely no more room in those wheel wells. You cannot put a finger in between the wheel and the top of the fender. On a side note the stance currently is hilarious with the front slammed and the rear still at stock height. Hopefully my rear coilover sleeves will arrive in the mail this week so we can level the whole thing off. Then its time for exhaust and paint!!! stay tuned
  • That thing is flippin awesome! Could the fenders be rolled to accommodate?
  • Whats your paint plans?
  • ^Yes! This car must be saved before that rust gets worse and believe me that clock is ticking. Honda did a terrible job of any real kind of rust proofing on their older cars.

    If money is super tight I vote Hotrod Flatz. You would have $400 into the whole paint job and that's including supplies and primer.
  • how is $400 cheap when you can do a whole rustoleum or boat paint setup for like $75 haha
  • Yeah? Is that a paint roller job? Lol

    Hot Rod Flatz has some pretty sweet colors and it's pretty darn risiliant.

    I bet that boat paint holds up pretty good.
  • prep work and painting will be done as soon as the rear gets lowered, shocks get replaced on all 4 corners, and the exhaust gets done. So hopefully by next weekend ill start prepping... Paint will be rustoleum in a very nice shade of flat brown. Im thinking about having a sanding/painting/drinking party the weekend after easter to finish her up. Also if anyone knows of anyone who does any really good grafiti who would like a little project I want to do some artwork on the front of the car... If you know of anyone let me know please
  • not as cheap as rustoleum but you could look into dipping your car.
  • Trade It For A Lexus" said:
    prep work and painting will be done as soon as the rear gets lowered, shocks get replaced on all 4 corners, and the exhaust gets done. So hopefully by next weekend ill start prepping... Paint will be rustoleum in a very nice shade of flat brown. Im thinking about having a sanding/painting/drinking party the weekend after easter to finish her up. Also if anyone knows of anyone who does any really good grafiti who would like a little project I want to do some artwork on the front of the car... If you know of anyone let me know please

    Very cool idea! I love the graffiti concept.

    Is the rustoleum a spray paint job or are you using an HVLP gun?
  • Plasti-dipping is actually $300-400 for a whole car.

    I'd go the thinned and sprayed through a real paint gun route.
  • Spray paint style... right now I'm kinda coin a junkyard build and this is probably gonna be the cheapest route
  • I spray painted my old Wagovan and the results were good for about a year then it faded terribly. I regret not doing it right the first time and using a better quality paint either with UV protection or a clear coat over it.

    That's my experience with spray paints, take it for what it is.

    My two cents is to do it "right" the first time, whether that's a cheap base/clear setup, HRF or even a single stage. Prep is everything as well.


    Again, awesome project man, these old cars need to be saved, they are too fuckin cool to see them head to the scrap yard
  • Well since I have been bad about posting updates... here is a big one. I started sanding and preping for paint a couple weeks ago and managed to get very far in doing so. This is where it started, taking off trim. In the first picture theres a small sample of what the color will look like when its all done. So here we go time for pictures.
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    trim off with a small color sample.
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    shot of the passenger side, the trim on the side of door will not be put back on, the holes are getting filled with fiberglass and sanded smooth
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    passenger side front door, had to bring a pretty significant part down to metal because of rust
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    passenger rear quarter panel
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    driver side front door, the entire drivers side had 3 dents that needed to be pulled which is for the entire car, besides little dime sized dents that are getting filled with bondo, these are two of them
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    better shot of the driver side front door
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    kind of a shitty picture but this is the driver side rear door where the other bigger dent is
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    gibs teaching alyssa how to run a wire wheel
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    HONDA POWER!!!!
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    hard at work
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